Kedisan Village

The fishing and farming village of Kedisan, the community almost directly beneath Penelokan (three km), has foodstalls, pasar area, extensive gardens (oranges, corn, peanuts), souvenir shops, bemo terminal, a big parking lot, ticket office, and boat landing. The weather is exceedingly mild and enjoyable. Few mosquitoes but some flies due to the extensive gardens. No telephone or fax machines. There are a number of accommodations, several in attractive settings only minutes from the water. These are the best places to stay if you plan to take a boat trip across the lake. The lake is clean and nice to swim in. Sometimes a bit noisy with dogs at night and cocks in the morning. Always park your vehicle within your hotel grounds, where it will be safe. At night restaurants are convivial meeting places.

The big drawback of Kedisan's accommodations is the swarm of peddlers demanding you buy sarung, shorts, and paintings. They flash you large, sad eyes, show you their guestbooks filled with signatures of satisfied tourists who've bought from them before. Don't fall for it unless you want to buy mass-produced and tacky merchandise and encourage obnoxious behavior in so doing. Kedisan is also full of people trying to get you to pay them to guide you up the mountain. Again, don't do it; you don't need a guide. If you feel you must employ someone, choose I Wayan Pineh, a legendary figure who works out of Surya Homestay. Ask him about the 1963 eruption, when he led a geologist safely away from a fountain of hot lava. His knowledge of the region's volcanoes is extensive and his friendly character and exceptional skills make him the undisputed king of volcano guides.

Cheapest is Segara Bungalows near the ferry terminal and close to the road, next to the bar/restaurant and shops. Turn right after descending from Penelokan and reaching the road along the lakeshore. Five basic rooms with mandi cost Rp200,000 single, Rp150,000 double. The restaurant offers the standard menu, though it would be nice if someone taught them the basics of cooking; it's a shame a chicken has to die to be covered in such a vile sauce. North along the western side of the lake toward Seked village is Segara Homestay, separated from the lake by peanut and cabbage fields. The 33 rooms start at Rp300,000 s for bargain rooms with mandi and go up to Rp650,000 for larger rooms. Clean with big comfortable beds, fans, bathtubs, shower, hot water. In some rooms the hotel water exudes fumes-dangerous. Have the roomboy try it out first. The staff is helpful and friendly-the hotel has good vibes. A buffet is offered each night in a nice dining area; people from most of the surrounding hotels come here to eat. The restaurant also serves Indonesian and Balinese food, as well as margaritas and other mixed drinks. Another appreciated feature is the big, secure parking lot. Segara can also provide experienced guides for climbing Gunung Batur.

A few meters farther on you'll find Surya Homestay and Restaurant offering 22 rooms with private baths, showers, and good views of the lake. Rooms cost Rp200,000-250,000 s or d with cold water; Rp400,000 with hot water. Laundry service. Tariff includes breakfast of pancake, toast, egg, and choice of coffee or tea. The restaurant serves very good food, a mixed menu of Indonesian and Western dishes (fried noodles Rp50,000, to cream of asparagus soup Rp10,000. Particularly good is the fresh lake fish (ikan kapur). The lake is only a two-minute walk.

Vicinity of Kedisan
In Buahan, two km from Kedisan on the western shore of the lake, stay at seven-room Buahan Homestay, Rp10,000 s, Rp15,000 d including breakfast-nice, clean, friendly, and quiet. The asphalt road from Kedisan to Buahan to Abang is roly-poly, hugging the land between the lake, the gardens, and the mountains. Abang is about six km from Kedisan, and two km before Trunyan. To walk from Kedisan to Abang and back takes about 2.5 to three hours at a moderate pace.

The small village of Abang, relocated more than once due to shifts of the mountain slope, offers a small, primitive marketplace and several shops selling cold drinks. Every morning lines of village women from the other side of the mountain climb down the steep slope carrying sweet potatoes and vegetables to exchange for a few fish from the lake. After your visit to Trunyan, return to Abang and negotiate for a canoe or motorboat back to Kedisan or across to Toya Bungkah. From Toya Bungkah, it's about seven km along hair-raising terrain back to Kedisan.

You can also take the good trail from outside Abang up to the outer crater rim-steep in places, but easy enough to handle. It's on the left about two kilometers from Abang (if heading toward Buahan) emerging on the road from Besakih. From here, walk to the main Denpasar-Kintamani road, a beautiful stroll above the lake. It's an hour's walk from Segara Hotel to the turnoff path up the mountain, then another hour to the main Denpasar-Kintamani highway. Inquire after guides in Abang or at a Kedisan hotel.

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